Hi guys,
I just want to confirm that I've got my LC-1 connected up correctly as I find the Innovate documentation is a little unclear.
Am I correct in thinking that the calibration wire should be permanently connected to ground whilst calibrating and in normal operation via the push button switch? i.e. open circuit unless the switch is operated? and the LED is in parallel to the switch?
The thing that's confusing me most is that the LED logically shorts the switch, making the connection to ground permanent, but I suspect this is not the case and current isn't actually able to flow through the LED (?) Apologies if I'm being a bit thick.
Festive regards,
RobH
LC-1 ground wire connection?
Moderator: Matt
just did a quick check up on the manual, and I think I got it...
the led will only operate when the system needs to "send energy" through the calibration wire, and that is when it sends the information about possible error's and the functioning status of the sensor (by making the led blink). the push button is for you to force a ground connection on that wire for a determined amount of time, on wich the system recognises as being the time to calibrate...
I might be wrong though... on the innovate forum's I've seen the post's like "yeah, I got it right first time" and that was by following the instruction manual...
so... don't know for sure since I haven't tried it yet... lol
the led will only operate when the system needs to "send energy" through the calibration wire, and that is when it sends the information about possible error's and the functioning status of the sensor (by making the led blink). the push button is for you to force a ground connection on that wire for a determined amount of time, on wich the system recognises as being the time to calibrate...
I might be wrong though... on the innovate forum's I've seen the post's like "yeah, I got it right first time" and that was by following the instruction manual...
so... don't know for sure since I haven't tried it yet... lol
Black ground wire to anode (+ side) of LED and one side of push button. Another wire from other side of push button and cathode (- side) of LED to ground, preferably the same ground used for the heater and system ground of the LC1.
The led will blink upon startup while the o2 heater is heating up. Once it's operational the led will be on all the time, unless there is an error it will flash the code.
For best results do what I did. I put a LED in an unused spot in the cluster so that it's easily viewable (mine's the spot right next to CEL since I don't have HICAS. I then put the push button on a auto trans OD off indicator i took from the junkyard, so it's on the cluster trim easily accesable but factory looking.
The led will blink upon startup while the o2 heater is heating up. Once it's operational the led will be on all the time, unless there is an error it will flash the code.
For best results do what I did. I put a LED in an unused spot in the cluster so that it's easily viewable (mine's the spot right next to CEL since I don't have HICAS. I then put the push button on a auto trans OD off indicator i took from the junkyard, so it's on the cluster trim easily accesable but factory looking.