Nistune Forums

Good stuff. I agree with everything he says except for the timing he's running in the mid range at full boost. SR's are very touchy here (probably because they make such good torque in the midrange = good cylinder filling). Other engines would probably be OK with those figures but SR's are different...

Hey Josh, Adding timing can be a good way to help them come on boost. But you need to be very careful how you do it cos each turbo/engine combination has different spool characteristics. The idea is that you can actually run a lot of timing before boost comes up but then you need to remove it very q...

Yeah, I agree. I've tuned bucketloads of SR's now - and never had this problem! From checks on my own SR I know that fuel pressure should be around 36psi at idle, 43psi (3 bar) at atmospheric and then it should increase with boost from there on. This one was around 10psi above where it should be all...

Hey Josh, Yes, I have the Knocklite. Haven't had a chance to try it yet. Things have been conspiring against me. I tuned 2 SR's in the last week. The first one had the knock sensor missing! And the second one had a non-functional cigarette lighter! I'd just wired up the power for the Knocklite to a ...

No, it goes straight into the manifold. Even with the vacuum line removed the fuel pressure was 52psi when it should have been around 43.

PL

Yeah, that was the 2nd thing I did (after trying another FPR). No change.

It's really gotta be the pump. I guess we could bleed a bit of the pressure back to the tank but it just seems a bit wrong!

Thanks
PL

Hey Guys, This should probably be in the SR20 section but I thought I'd post it here so it might get more people to read it. I was tuning an(other) S13 SR20DET on the weekend. T28 turbo, 480cc injectors, Z32 AFM. I had a map that has worked in other engine with the same setup but this one was runnin...

Hi Michael, As you are probably aware, Matt is away at present. Back Friday. I can offer any insight about AFM offsets as I pretty much only tune SR's but I did notice something we have in common. The AFM voltage does seem to plateau after a certain point. Even though it's not topping out. I've seen...

Should be fine. I'll let you know the story once I pull the Knocklite apart. I'm thinking that if you wanted to, you could actually remove the LED from the Knocklite and build it into your dash. You'd need to set up the knock threshold and overall gain using the buttons on the Knocklite first of cou...

He he he - I ordered a Knocklite 10 minutes ago. So we shall see!!

PL

Hmmm. That ain't good. Check the plug. Other than that I'd just keep driving it until it starts to play up. I've never seen an intermittent CAS fault. They've either been dead or alive.

PL

I'm actually considering one of those TXS knock lites myself. The key to electronic knock detection is to firstly understand that it's hard to discriminate between engine mechanical noise and knock. And also that engine mechanical noise varies with RPM. So you need something that takes this into acc...

Decrease the numbers. If by ROM tunes you mean guys who just buy chips off of eBay and slap them in then it's a case of "some do and some don't". If the maps are really conservative then they should be fine - but gains will be minimal. If the tune is "closer to the edge" then it ...

As long as you can access a dyno then you can just gradually increase timing until torque stops increasing. This is the point where detonation is starting to happen. Then you add a safety factor by removing timing. Take a few degrees out before you do any of this. In fact if you're running 18psi tak...

Hey Josh,

I always recommend going easy until tuned. I'd say 12psi max until then if you've already verified that the mixtures are OK.

PL