Nistune Forums

which card version do you have ? 2 letter, 3 digit number on the card; first letter stands for continent: U= US, E= Europe, J= Japan, etc second letter is the menu language, E= English, G= German, etc. the 3 digit number is the version. I have 2 of the later version cards which I can spare, a EG960...

Lindsay Drife at Z Shop Melbourne had a couple of these a few years ago. He might be worth a try. Thanks mate, i might get in contact and see if there's anything left. I have 3 original Consult 1's (one is for parts) and a Consult 2 ...and lots of cards (european and a couple of US cards) Still use...

Has anyone got/played with an Original Nissan Consult handheld device ?

I managed to get one recently but i'm finding information and program cards hard to come by, or just ridiculously expensive. Interested to know if anyone has played with one or has one (working or otherwise).

Cheers.

Because i like to share, here's the listing of VE ECU part numbers i've found/confirmed so far. I started on this journey to see if there were different tunes between different 'types' of vehicles as some are luxury and others are marketed as more sporty along with trying to sort out the issues i ha...

Thanks Matt,

I guess the regular guy was taking a nap on those days when they created the part numbers !

Although in the 'unsupported' category i just thought i'd confirm some part numbers for you.

23710-2N510 = JN15 VZ-R N1 Ver1 SR16VE MT
23710-2N560 = JN15 VZ-R N1 Ver2 SR16VE MT

23710-5J000 = WP11 SR20VE CVT/AT (all the SR20VE's were AT/CVT transmissions, none came factory manual).


Cheers.

Aside from having a Nistune board installed the base ECU itself doesn’t have anything either ?

Hi all, is there any kind of unique identifier / serial number embedded in the ECU's for S13/14/N14/15 type units that would be accessible through consult and would definitely be unique to each unit ?

No problem, i found some info, related to some toyota stuff mostly but wasn't sure if it applied to nissan stuff as well. All good.

Thanks Matt, i was referring to the often scrambelled ROM images of the chips on the techtom boards as opposed to the CPLD program. Yeh i imagine the epoxy is because it was a 'race' ECU and they did that to ensure things didn't vibrate and break or something. i'll keep looking for it, but i wont be...

One last question, have you ever seen a board that looks like this (attached) for similar model ECUs. I missed out on buying this ECU by about 10 minutes and its bugged me ever since as i've never, ever seen another board like it installed in any of the ECUs i've researched. Its an JN15 SR16VE N1 EC...

Im sure you have the scrambler and descrambler info for the TechTom stuff? Given they use two very large CPLD instead of just the one small one that does increase the complexity for you.

Interesting to know it’s the same issue you face with other hardware. Thanks for that explanation Matt. I have gone ahead and installed the fresh KBM50AA board I have today and the CVT seems to be behaving on the first drive so I’ll monitor it over the next week and make sure ‘all is well’ and move ...

It does fit but there is a persistent knock sensor code 34 which is a known 'feature' of using that board. I actually have 2 of them sitting here but have held off fitting one at this point because the last time i plugged an ECU in with a board fitted the CVT did weird things and went into a 'limp' ...

My application is for the SR20VE in this case. I’ve asked a few of the NZ guys and they only have the KBM50AA boards as that is what they mainly use. Thanks Matt.