Nistune Forums

I have a ka24de S13 240sx with nistune.

I took the intake manifold off and welded up all the holes on the intake manifold except for FPR vacuum line and brake booster line.

Well I regret welding up the IACV, guess I got carried away a little.

I have opened my throttle plate a little with the set screw so the car will idle but a few questions:

1. What can I do in nistune so that the ECU won't mess with timing etc.. trying to get the idle it wants?

2. How do I "reset" (for lack of a better term) the TPS?
At "idle" the tps now reads .73 volts since I adjusted the throttle body screw?

if you set your idle speed rpm stupidly low then the ECU wont adjust the timing further when the TPS switch voltage senses it is idle

the TPS on yours is just a voltage or a switch also? do you want to adjust the TPS trigger voltage in the ECU? i dont think you can do that without hacking the ECU code in most cases. you need to adjust the switch position itself

So if I set it at like 100 rpm's the ECU won't mess with timing, but the car will still idle at like 1000rpm's, if that's what I set the Throttle Body plate screw at? (Sorry I'm a newb)


It has a voltage and a switch. Does the ECU not care about the voltage if the switch is "tps idle" ?

Basically I wanna know what I need to do to get the car to just idle at like a steady 1000 rpms.

Do I need to mess with the "idle stabilization" map or just change the neutral idle target rpm map to something really low?

as far as in know that the tps setting go into nistue consult and turn it down untill the idle comes on i the consult.. this will then go closed loop and adjust idle to target speed in the tables..

You can reset the voltage by turning ignition on for 5 seconds and then off for five seconds.. 20 times however you need the car to be hot.. as in 5min drive hot..

FSM says 0.45v on the tps and set it to that as it is high enough to not get rubbish signals and low enough to not max out when the throttle is cranked..

but yeah it is depending on how high your idle is and how well your car idles..as to the fact that the stabilisation will take effect..

as for your removing the iacv.. thats ok but you need a throttle body with a fast idle cam.. and coolant lines to it..

Thanks for the tips guys.
Got it to idle pretty steady, just bounces around by 100-200 rpm's.

My timing is way off from my head-gasket job, so I gotta fix it before I can get idle perfect, but I had to fix idle a little before I could do timing..

My dizzy is turned all the way ccw and I'm still like 10-20 degrees away from the stock timing mark, but I'm close enough with idle to get my timing closer.

I found that if I set Idle speed RPM TABLE to something lower then I want (like Matt said) (like 625rpm's) and then I changed the
Idle speed Stabilization TABLE so that it doesn't adjust timing at idle above 700 rpms or so the idle stays pretty steady.

This seems to work well as after I'm warmed up my idle sits pretty much were I put it.
(I like 900-1000 rpms.)

how is your cold start ?

I have to give it some throttle for like 20-30 seconds or it'll flood it seems.
Yesterdays first start it was around 60F. It'll start with no accelerator input, but then almost immediately die and not start back up again unless I pull the injector harnesses, let it fire up and die, and then try to start it again.


After the first start/run of the day it'll start up and idle fine without any accelerator input.
This morning it was ~56F probably and I started it up with no gas, but gave it gas for like 20-30 seconds until it warmed up a bit, it would then idle stead.y

The coldest it gets normally where I live is like 40 degrees maybe during Jan/Feb so I'm not too worried about it.

I'm going to lean out the fuel cold enrichment table and advance timing a little in the timing cold adjustment tables (those aren't there proper names.) I think after a while I'll be able to lean it out enough so that it'll start/idle on its own. I only get one chance to try it a day though, but then again it's not that big of a problem.